Sri Lanka Art & Culture, Cities, Countryside, Trains
A journey through Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heart
Train arriving at famous Nine arch bridge in Ella, Sri Lanka
With its rich cultural heritage, stunning landscapes and diverse wildlife, Sri Lanka never fails to dazzle. It’s particularly captivating on an immersive tour through the country’s Cultural Triangle
Watching an elephant stroll casually across the beach is not something one expects to see while sipping a sundowner. But here we are at Uga Chena Huts on the southeast coast of Sri Lanka, wedged between the Indian Ocean and Yala National Park. In this part of the island nation, co-existing with exotic wildlife is just one of the many unique things that define your days.
My journey began a few days prior in the capital, Colombo, where I was greeted by the team from luxury tour operator The Fabulous Getaway before being whisked off to Uga Riva – Negombo, where I would get my first taste of Sri Lanka. The calm, beachy vibes of this city, located north of Colombo on the west coast, offer a moment to breathe before for the journey ahead: a jam-packed adventure through Sri Lanka’s famed Cultural Triangle.
I only make it to our first to destination before being blown away. Walking through the five grottoes of the Rangiri Dambulla Cave Temple – a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the 3rd century BC – fills me with awe. The intricate paintings, statues and sculptures – preserved so meticulously over centuries – offer a fascinating window into Sri Lanka’s Buddhist heritage, and are still a pilgrimage site to this day. The caves are breathtaking, and being in the presence of such ancient art and history is an incredibly humbling experience.
Rest and retreat
A few nights at the serene Uga Ulagalla – a luxurious eco-retreat situated in the ancient kingdom of Anuradhapura, at the heart of the Cultural Triangle – gives me plenty of time to explore the lush grounds. Hidden away in the quiet village of Thirappane, this luxurious resort is 23-hectare estate that was once a chieftain’s mansion. The grounds are so expansive there’s room for two sparkling reservoirs, lush green paddy fields and ponds peppered with lilies.
Uga Ulagalla offers a beautiful balance of modern comfort and traditional charm, and the resort’s commitment to sustainability is immediately evident in its solar systems, organic farming initiatives and use of reclaimed wood in the villa furnishings. The resort offers plenty of luxury, too. Every villa has a pool, and excursions include sunset cocktails at Nachchaduwa (one of the reservoirs). We toast to the beauty of nature – a peaceful, grounding moment.
The resort’s Kamatha dinner experience is an outdoor Sri Lankan feast beneath century-old Banyan trees. It’s the perfect end to the day. The claypots and open fires used to prepare the meal fill the air with fragrant spices, leaving us with full bellies and warm hearts.
Historical treasures
Continuing our cultural journey we venture to the sacred city of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka’s first capital and another UNESCO World Heritage site. The ancient Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Tree – believed to be grown from a cutting of the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment – stands at the centre of the sprawling ruins. There’s something deeply spiritual about being near this living piece of history, surrounded by centuries-old monuments such as the massive Jetavanaramaya stupa.
Back at Ulagalla we visit the Elephant Research Centre, where we learn about the delicate navigation between elephants and the villagers living nearby. Dr Prithiviraj Fernando, a renowned conservationist, gives a fascinating presentation on the intricate relationships between humans and wildlife. His insights open my eyes to the complexity of elephant conservation and the community’s dedication to ensuring that these magnificent creatures continue to thrive.
At our lunch spot within Matale Spice Garden, we discover popular spices grown and used in Sri Lankan cuisine and Ayurvedic treatments – we have the chance to partake in a cooking class and massage using these natural ingredients before continuing to beautiful Kandy.
A green scene
This large city in central Sri Lanka is set on a plateau surrounded by mountains, which are home to tea plantations and biodiverse rainforest. With pretty Kandy Lake (Bogambara Lake) at its heart and sacred Buddhist sites – including the Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) shrine to explore, this is a destination not to be missed on a journey through Sri Lanka. Boutique hotel Kings Pavilion, tucked away in the misty hills amid verdant forest, makes an ideal base from which to explore the scenic central highlands.
Exploring Kandy’s Royal Palace Complex and the Temple of the Tooth feels like stepping into a chapter of an Indiana Jones film. The deep spiritual significance and historical importance of the two is fascinating; it’s incredible to think that the location of ‘the tooth’ (said to belong to Buddha) once determined Sri Lanka’s governance.
They say it’s the journey, not the destination that matters, and this is all too true of the scenic train we take from Kandy to Haputale. The lush, rolling tea plantations outside make for a dreamy backdrop, and arriving at our accommodation Thotalagala – perched high in the hills with breathtaking views over the tea estates – feels like stepping back in time. Built by Sir Thomas Lipton in 1890, this colonial bungalow is steeped in history. Thotalagala is not just a hotel – it’s an experience. The level of service here is unparalleled, with the staff making us feel like honoured guests in a stately home.
The rooms are beautifully decorated with antique furnishings, and the gardens immaculately kept, adding to the old-world charm of the property. Visiting the Lipton Tea Factory provides a fascinating look at the tea-making process that Sri Lanka is renowned for, and walking through the plantations makes me appreciate the labour behind each cup. A highlight is the early morning visit to Lipton’s Seat, where Sir Thomas once proudly surveyed his estate.
Eco-luxuries
In Yala, home to the second largest national park in Sri Lanka, we check in to Uga Chena Huts, an eco-luxury lodge offering an incredible connection to nature. Chena Huts perfectly melds luxury with the wilderness – it is a place where you can sleep in utmost comfort while wildlife roams freely around you. The thatched-roof cabins are spacious and beautifully furnished, and each has its own plunge pool overlooking the grounds.
During our stay, we receive the blessing of an unexpected visitor – a baby elephant, wandering up to our villa pool to quench his thirst before munching on leaves from nearby trees. It is an intimate, surreal moment, reminding us of the deep importance of the natural environment on native wildlife and why we must do everything we can to ensure its preservation.
Our early morning safari in Yala National Park allows us to spot leopards, elephants and other wildlife. Witnessing a Sri Lankan leopard, endemic to the country, is truly special, and it is fascinating to see how these majestic creatures seem completely unfazed by our presence – a testament to the conservation efforts that have allowed them to live freely and without fear. Later in the afternoon we enjoy a bonfire dinner by the beach after witnessing another majestic sunset accompanied by delicious cocktails.
With our journey drawing to a close we head to Galle, a city rich in colonial history, staying at two remarkable properties: the Galle Fort Hotel and Amangalla. Walking through the old streets of Galle Fort – surrounded by centuries of architectural influences from Portuguese, Dutch and British rule – is like wandering through a living museum. Every corner is filled with charm and character, and I find myself enchanted by the blend of cultures that have shaped this coastal city.
It’s never too late to create memories, as I find on returning to Colombo at the end of our tour. The incredible Mark Forbe of Colombo City Walking Tourss takes us on a tour of the hidden history of the capital, and his wealth of knowledge, humour and engaging personality makes the experience an unexpected highlight.
Sri Lanka is a country of incredible diversity, where every destination offers something unique – whether it’s cultural heritage, breathtaking landscapes, beach life or unique wildlife encounters. From the welcoming people to the rich history and commitment to sustainability, I’ll carry the memories of this beautiful country with me for years to come.
Journey Notes
The Fabulous Getaway’s fully customisable Sri Lanka journey spans 11 nights /12 days, with rates starting from USD$5,610 per person (about AUD$8,320) based on double share. thefabulousgetaway.com
Stay in Galle
The Galle Fort Hotel is a beautifully restored boutique property that embodies the charm of the historic fort. The high ceilings, antique furnishings and meticulously preserved colonial architecture give the hotel a timeless elegance. galleforthotel.com
Amangalla offers a luxurious and tranquil escape amidst the bustling fort. Originally built in the 17th century, this heritage property speaks to the opulence of a bygone era. The spa, housed in a separate part of the garden, offers a welcome indulgence after days of exploration. aman.com
Stay in Colombo
Cinnamon Life is a 600-plus room, strikingly modern hotel that serves as a symbol of Colombo’s forward-looking attitude. The sleek, contemporary design of the hotel stands in contrast to the historic hotels spread about Sri Lanka, and offers every comfort one could ask for, with multiple bar and dining options. cinnamonhotels.com
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