Thailand’s most talked-about wellness retreat

Wellness means far more than massages at the preeminent Thai health retreat, RAKxa. Here, languid days by the pool are out and a comprehensive schedule of health treatments to better the body and mind are in

It isn’t until the third time my therapist lights a fire on my stomach that I decide I want to take a peek. Until now I’ve been lying back and enjoying the relaxing heat generated by the flame-warmed herbal paste. Now, I lift my head and marvel at the fact that yes indeed, there really are flames dancing on my stomach – and it feels fantastic.

This is not the first or last surprise in store during my stay at RAKxa, Thailand’s most talked-about wellness retreat. I thought I’d tried just about every spa treatment under the sun, but this ya pao therapy, a traditional Thai treatment that also involves massage, is new to me. It aims to boost the lymphatic and drainage systems but it also does double-duty as a great de-stresser.

It doesn’t take long to realise RAKxa is not your average wellness retreat. New arrivals at this tranquil resort – located in a village-like setting in the green ring that surrounds Bangkok – are greeted with a resonant sound bath before being given a tour around their spacious villa. And then it is time to get down to business.

RAKxa’s point of difference is its integrative approach to healing, combining holistic therapies (drawing on Indian, Chinese and Thai traditions) with Western medicine. Guests fill in an exhaustive pre-arrival questionnaire, which staff use to put together a personalised program – your first task when you arrive is to sit down with your wellness coordinator and fine-tune the program.

Plunging in

It is during this first fiery session that I realise that if I want to take a dip in RAKxa’s gorgeous emerald pool, I’m going to have to schedule it in; this is not the type of retreat where you have plenty of free time between your morning yoga class and your afternoon massage. They keep me much busier than I expected, and I never get to open the book I’ve brought along, preferring to use my downtime to relax in my villa’s verdant garden.

Even though I don’t have any pressing health problems – like most of us, I’d just like to be a bit less stressed, a bit healthier and a bit fitter – my days are filled with treatments, evaluations (including the blood and stool analyses that are standard for every guest) and other activities. There are Chinese stomach massages and physiotherapy, IV injections and Ayurvedic massages. Each one of my appointments is memorable, whether it gives me more information about my body or simply allows me to relax.

RAKxa has three separate treatment centres, each one dedicated to a different modality. The serene Jai is where traditional practitioners work their magic. A very different vibe is in place at both Gaya, the fitness and physiotherapy hub, and Vitallife, the medical HQ. Staff across all three hubs communicate with each other so that every time you show up for a treatment, your practitioner is fully briefed on what the latest sessions have revealed about your body.

That turns out to be a huge benefit when we discover that my abdominal strength is virtually non-existent – it seems other parts of my body have been working overtime to keep me moving freely. Cue some late program changes, which let me appreciate just how much high-tech equipment RAKxa has.

We put my core through some serious workouts, including a session on the Tesla Former, which uses electromagnetic stimulation to tone your muscles, and the Redcord machine, used in rehabilitation clinics.

If you are something of a tech-head, you are also going to want to try out the cryo-chamber and the hyperbaric chamber. This one lets you sit upright as you breathe in the oxygen-rich air – a pleasant change from the coffin-like chamber most spas offer that can induce severe claustrophobia.

Now, I lift my head and marvel at the fact that yes, there really are flames dancing on my stomach – and it feels fantastic.

Nurture and nourish

RAKxa’s food – much of it grown on its own farm – is outstanding. Mornings start with excellent coffee and dishes including avocado toast and crab-studded scrambled eggs. Meanwhile, the three-course evening meals might include lobster bisque, pan-seared bream with grilled asparagus and fennel salad, and mango pie.

It is the lunches that I enjoy most, however, with their fabulous Asian flavours – anything from fresh Vietnamese prawn spring rolls to chicken-and-banana-blossom salad. Beverages include kombuchas and a fabulous selection of brewed infusions. There is even an on-site tea house where you can choose from 60 different options.  

I’ve had plenty of spa stays in my time and left each of them feeling more relaxed and with a vague sense of wanting to live better. RAKxa is the first place that helps me understand my body more and leaves me inspired to make some serious changes in my life. One thing I’m sure of: I’ll be back for more.

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Journey Notes

RAKxa’s programs run from three to 14 nights. Rates for a three-night personalised program start from 97,000 baht (about AU$4,280) per person twin share, or 188,000 baht (about AU$8,300) single occupancy. rakxawellness.com