A culinary journey through Argentina: from Mendoza’s vineyards to Buenos Aires and Iguazu

From Michelin-starred tasting menus and vineyard sunsets to barbecue legends, street food gems and jungle feasts, Argentina serves up a gastronomic adventure across its diverse landscapes

Luggage reclaim at Mendoza Airport showed this would be my kind of town – and country. Perched above the whirring conveyor belt were three huge wine barrels, welcoming visitors to one of the world’s greatest regions for grape lovers.

After a short but invariably bumpy flight over the Andes from Santiago, Mendoza marks the first taste of Argentina on a two-week culinary tour, kicking off at Azafrán. Spanish for ‘saffron’, Chef Sebastián Weigandt’s restaurant holds one Michelin star – part of a galaxy of 17 across Mendoza Province, outshining even Buenos Aires.

Refined and beautifully balanced, Chef Sebastián Weigandt’s ten-course ‘Paseo por Argentina’ tasting menu is the perfect introduction to the country’s world-class produce. From a macaron with goat’s cheese and goat jerky – a reminder that beef isn’t the nation’s only meat – to an oyster from Argentinian Patagonia paired with wine from the world’s southernmost winery, every course is a revelation.

Staying among Mendoza’s vineyards

More than 90 wineries sit within a 90-minute drive of Mendoza, but few match Casa de Uco for setting. Offering beautiful suites, it sits on its own small lake, surrounded by verdant vineyards and framed by the snow-capped Andes.

Whether playing with the in-house Labradors, exploring the vineyards on foot or horseback, or unwinding at the pool and spa, Casa de Uco seems to slow time. Wines like their Flora & Fauna Malbec are sublime expressions of the region’s terroir, pairing perfectly with crispy empanadas or more inventive plates such as lacquered sweetbreads with burnt eggplant purée, avocado and a dangerously addictive hot sauce.

One unmissable and unforgettable moment comes 9,000 feet up in the Andes: watching the sun rise over the vast Uco Valley, alfajores shortbread cookies in hand, glued with dulce de leche, and Yerba Maté brewed by our gaucho guide.

Culinary highlights in Buenos Aires

Argentina is the world’s eighth-largest country – just over a third the size of Australia – so reaching Buenos Aires from Mendoza requires a two-hour flight. Sitting at the same latitude as Sydney and Cape Town, the city enjoys a clement climate, perfect for strolling its elegant, European-style boulevards and expansive parks.

In the early 20th century, Argentina ranked as the world’s second-richest economy. Today, however, it is navigating a period of financial uncertainty. The era of dining out for two with a bottle of wine for under $40 has largely passed. Travellers should be mindful of Argentina’s dual exchange rates and bring crisp US dollars to exchange for pesos, often at more favourable rates than those offered officially.

Nonetheless, credit cards are widely accepted, and reservations are essential at the city’s most sought-after establishments – none more so than Don Julio, recently crowned number one in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. A parrilla par excellence, it honours Argentina’s deep-rooted asado tradition, where prime cuts are seared over smouldering live fire.

Each guest is greeted with a glass of sparkling wine – a fitting prelude to the feast – before being invited to peruse a menu of premium beef cuts, each grilled to perfection over quebracho charcoal. Pan-fried provoleta and smoky chorizo set the tone for the centrepiece: a prime rib (bife de chorizo ancho) so tender it slices like butter. The 16,000-bottle wine cellar warrants a visit in its own right, a treasure trove for oenophiles – among the regulars is Leo Messi, revered here with near-mythical status, his name stitched into the cultural fabric of the nation.

Exploring Buenos Aires through food and culture

In La Boca, a working-class district known for the Boca Juniors football team, early 20th-century immigrants from Italy, Spain, and Lebanon brought with them a love for Fernet Branca – the bitter Italian spirit still ubiquitous, always mixed with Coke.

The spirit is often served alongside empanadas dunked in vibrant chimichurri, especially in Boca’s brightly coloured cafes, where the flavours are as vivid as the surroundings. A 10-minute drive away, San Telmo’s historic, Art Nouveau market offers great-value eats, smoky parillas and local bars – with notable venues such as Hierro among the highlights.

For finer dining, Casa Cavia offers a refined dining experience. A hidden courtyard and elegant bar set the scene for standout dishes like silky tofu with asparagus in ginger vinaigrette or charred squid with leeks, coriander, and edamame.

For something different, Chef Mariano Ramon at Gran Dabbang draws from his time in Asia, serving wood-fired roti with fermented chilli and anchovy, or rich duck curry with parathas. The space is adorned with Bollywood posters and photographs of Sachin Tendulkar, while the constant line out the door confirms the restaurant’s loyal following.

Following a visit to the extraordinary Retiro Cemetery – final resting place of Eva ‘Evita’ Perón – the next stop is the Palacio Duhau hotel in the Recoleta district for a superb steak. Tango dancers add a touch of romance to the surroundings and make the Malbec go down all the more smoothly, capturing the relaxed sophistication of Buenos Aires.

Discovering Iguazu Falls and northern Argentina

The journey concludes with a two-hour flight north to the steamy, subtropical jungles of Iguazu, near the borders of Paraguay and Brazil. Even before reaching the UNESCO-listed Iguazu Falls, the 68,000-hectare wildlife-filled national park is captivating. Then comes the main spectacle: an awe-inspiring cascade of 2.4 million litres of water per second, creating a roar that reverberates through the forest, providing an unforgettable soundtrack.

Some 40 kilometres south, the luxury eco-retreat Pristine Iguazu, perched above the Paraná River, offers a tranquil counterpoint. Here, dishes such as river fish ceviche with grilled mango, or braised pork with sweet potato cream and caramelised apples, affirm that even in the most unexpected corners of Argentina, a thrilling culinary journey awaits.

Chris Dwyer’s visit to Argentina was supported in part by luxury tour agency Lightfoot Travel.