Heritage reimagined at Raffles London at The OWO

London’s first Raffles hotel, which has opened inside a historic building that was formerly Britain’s War Office, is an intriguing confluence of past and present

You get a sense of The OWO’s storied past as you approach it. The imposing Edwardian building proudly stands facing Whitehall, a London thoroughfare and a prominent government hub that leads to iconic landmarks like Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. It’s no coincidence that this luxurious new hospitality destination neighbours some of the capital’s most historically and politically significant sites – in its past life, it was Britain’s War Office, a secretive, labyrinthine structure that served as the hub for military operations during World Wars I and II.

The trapezium-shaped structure was built in 1906 and, over the decades, bore witness to conversations, strategies, and decisions from the likes of Winston Churchill and David Lloyd George. It was the birthplace of MI5 and MI6, ultimately sparking the inspiration for then-naval intelligence officer Ian Fleming’s world-famous James Bond spy novels.  

In September 2023, following a meticulous eight-year renovation and restoration, the 76,000-square-metre, grade II-listed building opened to the public for the first time as The OWO. Debuting inside its walls is London’s first Raffles hotel, joining an ever-growing inventory of five-star hotels in the British capital.

Heritage reimagined

In the 21st century, the site’s purpose has changed considerably. But relics of its history still remain. This is perhaps no more evident than when stepping into the hotel’s entrance hall to face the grand staircase, a marker of grandiosity cast from Painswick stone, English alabaster, Piastraccia Italian marble and Brescia marble. Ascending its red-carpeted staircase, softly lit by a magnificent chandelier overhead, feels like stepping back in time.

On the second floor, five heritage suites offer elevated levels of space and opulence. Stepping inside the Haldane Suite, I notice the soaring ceilings, which might be the highest I’ve seen in a hotel room, and appreciate how Thierry Despont, the late French designer tasked with the interiors for Raffles, has succeeded in communicating the significance of the rooms by enhancing rich details like oak panelling, original mantlepieces and custom furniture. The lavish effect is replicated down the hall in the Churchill Suite, where deep-green Damask wall upholstery and dark timber are met with intricately carved cornicing and classic chandeliers.

In the seemingly never-ending corridors leading to my suite, vibrant red carpeting features a cubed pattern that mirrors the building’s original floor grilles; meanwhile, drapes are adorned with leather and studding that is a nod to the uniforms worn by the Horse Guards, whose daily changing ceremony occurs opposite The OWO.

Curating excellence

Raffles enlisted best-in-class partners across design, hospitality and wellness when conceptualising how the hotel would be brought to life. Acclaimed Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco – best-known for his three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Mirazur, in France ­– helms three dining concepts, bringing his seasonally driven culinary approach to London with an all-day brasserie, fine-dining restaurant and a private chef’s table.

Restaurant Saison, Colagreco’s elegant brasserie that occupies a former library, evokes the feel of a Mediterranean courtyard with its trellised walls, leafy greenery and glass arcade ceiling. The menu marries European influences with British ingredients, seen in dishes like Orkney scallop crudo with blood orange, West Country lamb with confit shoulder gnocchi, and Cornish cod à la Provençale. Service is flawless, with each dish beautifully presented on white tablecloths along with paired wines from an assured sommelier.

Breakfast the next morning is an equally elegant affair. I order from the à la carte menu and fuel up on golden-hued scrambled eggs accompanied by smoked trout and brioche toast, served with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. A compact buffet offers an assortment of fresh pastries, breads, seasonal fruit, British cheeses and cold meats.  

At the Guards Bar and Lounge, guests can libate in the same room where workers of the War Office once did. Fans of Raffles’ signature Singapore Sling cocktail will be pleased to see it on the menu alongside a freshly created London version and a seasonal Sling, showcasing a recipe from Raffles’ global properties. There are extravagances, too – a cocktail made with vintage spirits can set you back as much as £750, while the hotel’s exclusive six-litre Louis XIII de Rémy Martin Cognac is optionally paired with caviar and poured from a mathusalem into a Château Baccarat degustation glass.

Moving mountains

During The OWO’s redevelopment, an astounding 64,000 square metres of earth was excavated, 25 metres below ground, helping to make way for Raffles’ four-storey wellness space, where guests and private residents can recuperate and relax. A 20-metre swimming pool lined with sun loungers is complemented by a Guerlain spa with nine treatment rooms, a sauna, steam room and vitality pool. Health club Pillar Wellbeing provides comprehensive consultations and wellness programs, fitness classes with some of London’s best instructors, and sports recovery technology like compression boots.

It may be easy to while away the hours in the lap of Raffles’ luxuries or getting lost in the fascinating heritage of The OWO. Yet the building is but one slice of London’s history and guests will find myriad attractions just moments from the bottom of that majestic staircase – from wandering the banks of the Thames to take in the city’s mishmash of architecture, strolling through the royal palace-bordered grounds of St. James’s Park, or listening for the chime of Big Ben. Past into present, London is calling.

Room rates at Raffles London at The OWO start from £884 (about AUD$1,693) per night.

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The OWO in numbers

2.5: The distance, in miles, of original corridors
3: The staffing ratio (per guest room) at Raffles London
5: Number of James Bond films in which the building has starred as MI6 HQ
25: The depth, in metres, that excavation works reached during the redevelopment
47: The number of new lifts added to the building
1,100: Rooms that the original building contained when it was completed in 1906
19,000: Distance, in feet, of ornamental cast-iron grilles that were installed around the hallways and corridors of the original building for telephone and bell wires
350 million: GBP, the widely reported purchase price of the building in 2016