Why this safari lodge was worth a second visit

With countless safari lodges across South Africa, few warrant a repeat visit – unless it’s andBeyond Tengile River Lodge, where luxury meets meaning and every detail exceeds expectation

Why return to the same place twice? With hundreds of safari lodges to choose from in South Africa alone, travellers seeking to sight the ‘Big Five’ are spoilt for choice in this nation. But there are safari lodges, and then there’s andBeyond Tengile River Lodge. Positioned on the banks of the Sand River in the celebrated Sabi Sand Game Reserve, this is a place that surpasses expectations, including mine, which are sky-high thanks to a flawless stay six years ago.

My daughter can hardly contain her excitement as we clamber into a branded andBeyond Tengile River Lodge game drive vehicle after our long flight. The drive ahead depends on traffic – of the wildlife kind. Out here, animals have the right of way. Zebra crossings aren’t just a play on words, and elephant roadblocks are very real. But just 20 minutes later, we come to a stop, and it’s hard to put the feeling of arriving back at andBeyond Tengile River Lodge into words. This place has a strong sense of purpose and belonging, and being here again feels like a real privilege. My daughter says it best – it feels like coming home.

After a warm welcome replete with smiling faces, friendly waves, a cold towel and a refreshing drink from the bar, we sit down to a lunch of gourmet burgers and hand-cut fries with views over the bushveld.

A welcome second to none

With sweeping river views from every position and nine luxurious air conditioned suites, right from the get-go there is the promise of being irrevocably pampered at andBeyond Tengile River Lodge – even overindulged. But andBeyond’s appeal is not just skin deep – the brand is also synonymous with conservation, sustainability and eco-travel, and has been a stalwart in crafting exceptional safaris for over three decades. The andBeyond responsible travel model encourages guests to travel slower, lighter, deeper, further and longer, with lodges and camps in Africa, Asia, South America, the Indian Ocean Islands and operations in Antarctica.

The cuisine and service at the lodge are a cut above. If your preferred rib-eye or beef fillet isn’t on the menu but they have it in stock, Head Chef Benjamin and his team will still cook it for you – with both care and flair. Dinners are a lavish affair, with well thought out menus and suggested wine pairings with each course. On our second night, we are treated to a boma dinner, where the smell of meat cooked over an open fire is enough to make us salivate when approaching the outdoor setup. Catering to all and any dietary requirements, guests will be delighted to learn that even if they are gluten intolerant, vegan, vegetarian, pescatarian, Halaal or Kosher, they are in good hands.

Beyond the ordinary

We are staying in Suite 5, which is a short stroll from the main area along a sandy footpath. Crossing over the wooden bridge towards the spa and gym, the footpath turns to large concrete slabs, and my daughter notices a few hyena pawprints in the cement close to our front door. According to our butler, Nephtal, leopards love the shaded areas of Suites 4 and 5, occasionally resting on the outside deck or taking shelter right by the front door.

The suites at andBeyond Tengile River Lodge were constructed by Nick Plewman Architects, and interior designer Michele Throssell was responsible for the plush interiors. Seamlessly blending into the landscape, the sprawling 204-metre-squared suites are suspended above the tranquil Sand River. Both the scale and the furnishings far exceed the norm for a typical safari room. Repurposed aspects in the suites are a nod to the history of the area, such as the stone from the Selati Railway, which was used to create the smooth and cool underfoot terrazzo floors throughout the lodge and suites. The floors, in contrasting shades of dark green, rust and grey, glisten at night. Slatted raw wood that extends onto the walls creates a cosy cabin-line feel.

Creature comforts in the suite, meanwhile, are plentiful. There’s a fully stocked bar with snacks for when you’re feeling peckish (which gets restocked after every housekeeping visit); a bean-to-cup coffee machine and milk frother; and a selection of whisky, gin, vodka and brandy for those pre-game drive sundowners. You will never go hungry or thirsty at andBeyond Tengile River Lodge.

The Big Five

“Do you remember Chris?” my daughter asks me. “He was our guide when we visited here in 2019.” My mind goes blank. “He’s the leopard guy – it’s also his favourite animal to see on safari,” she adds. Then it comes to me. AndBeyond Tengile River Lodge enjoys exclusive access to 10,500 hectares of untouched wilderness, offering guests like us the rare privilege of exploring the landscape beyond the limits of roads and vehicles. During our last visit we sighted a Teardrop female and her cubs, the Ncila male leopard and many more members of The Big Five.

This time, as we set off on safari at dawn, Chris and Tracker Colin are keen to showcase the animals that inhabit the private concession, with traversing right up to the border of Kruger National Park. It’s a windy morning and as we approach an imposing marula tree, a shape is hardly noticeable in the near-darkness. Draped over the branch of the tree, her beautiful face comes into view. She is known as The River Rocks female, the offspring of the Teardrop female we saw in 2019. At six years old, she is gorgeous, with a petite frame and yellow eyes.

Chris smiles. He picks up his two-way radio and glances over to us. That can only mean one thing – another leopard has been found! Knowing a few words of the South African Shangaan language, I hear him say ‘mdoda ingwe’, which means ‘male leopard’. He starts driving faster and suddenly we see him – a majestic male known as Nkova, son of Hanyile. He is uncomfortable as only a leopard can be, having eaten too much. When he repositions himself, he can now rest on the tree’s branch, his legs suspended as he falls asleep in order to digest his food.

Seeing The Big Five during our stay is a special and rare occurrence. Spending time with elephants feeding, a rhino immersed in a cooling mud puddle, a buffalo with a missing horn and sighting the Styx pride of lions, the Gijima males and the Sand River pride crossing the river after dark with their cubs in tow makes for a truly memorable stay at andBeyond Tengile River Lodge. Once again, I’m reminded of why I fell in love with this lodge the first time around.

Heléne Ramackers travelled as a guest of luxury African travel specialist, Mahlatini Luxury Travel. mahlatini.com/us